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Composting The Easy Way
By Michael McGroarty, Fri Dec 9th

You are welcome to use this article on your website or in yournewsletter as long as you reprint it as is, including thecontact information at the end. Website URLs must be activelinks. You are welcome to use this article with an affiliatelink, http://www.freeplants.com/resellers.htm

Having an ample supply of good rich compost is the gardenersdream. It has many uses, and all of those uses will result innicer plants. However, composting can be time consuming and hardwork. I place a reasonable value on my time, so spending hoursand hours turning compost piles doesn't qualify as a worthwhileexercise, at least in my book. Nonetheless, I do compost, but Ido so on my terms.

I built two composting bins. Each bin is five feet wide, fivefeet deep, and four feet high. I built the bins by sinking 4" by4" posts in the ground for the corners, and then nailed 2 by 4'sand 1 by 4's, alternating on the sides.


I left 2" gaps between the boards for air circulation. The 2 by4's are rigid enough to keep the sides from bowing out, and inbetween each 2 by 4 I used 1 by 4's to save a little money. Thebins are only 3 sided, I left the front of the bins open so theycan be filled and emptied easily. Photos of my compost bins areon this page: http://www.freeplants.comcomposting.htm

I started by filling just one of the bins. I put grassclippings, dried leaves, and shrub clippings in the bins. I trynot to put more than 6" of each material on a layer. You don'twant 24" of grass clippings in the bin and you should alternatelayers of green and brown material. If necessary, keep a fewbags of dry leaves around so you can alternate layers of brownwaste and green waste.

When we root cuttings we use coarse sand in the flats, so whenit's time to pull the rooted cuttings out of the flats, the oldsand goes on the compost pile. In our little backyard nursery wealso have some plants in containers that do not survive. Ratherthan pulling the dead plant and the weeds out of the container,and then dumping the potting soil back on the soil pile, we justdump the whole container in the compost bin. This adds morebrown material to the mix, and is a lot easier than separatingthe soil and the weeds.

Once the bin is full, the rules of composting say that youshould turn the material in the bin every few weeks. There is noway that I have time to do that, so this is what I do. I pack asmuch material in the bin as I can before I start filling thesecond bin. I pile the material as high as I possibly can, andeven let it spill out in front of the bin. Then I cover all thefresh material with mulch or potting soil, whatever brownmaterial I can find.

Then when I'm out working in the garden I set a small sprinkleron top of the pile and turn it on very low, so a small spray ofwater runs on the material. Since I have a good water well, thisdoesn't cost me anything, so I let it run for at least two hoursas often as I can. This keeps the material damp, and themoisture will cause the pile to heat up, which is what makes thecomposting action take place.

Once I have the first bin completely full, I start using thesecond bin. As the material in the first bin starts to breakdown, it will settle and the bin is no longer heaped up, so Ijust keep shoveling the material that I piled in front of thebin, up on top of the pile, until all the material is either inthe bin, or piled on top of the heap. Then I just leave italone, except to water it once in a while. The watering isn'tnecessary, it just speeds the process.

Because I don't turn the pile, I can't expect all of thematerial to rot completely. The material in the center is goingto break down more than the material on the edges, but most ofit does break down quite well. The next step works great for mebecause I've got a small nursery, so I keep a pile of pottingsoil on hand at all times. But you can really do the same thingby just buying two or three yards of shredded mulch to getstarted, and piling it up near your compost bins. If you dothis, you will

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Mounted on the back of your tractor, the 3-Point Hitch DRŽ CHIPPER goes wherever you need it to, for quickly clearing your property of unsightly brush piles and woody material up to 4-1/2" thick. With a top-discharge feature, the 3-Point Hitch model DRŽ CHIPPER can easily expel chips into a pickup truck bed, a large cart or wagon, or even into a wooded area or field.

The head of the chute can be angled down, for filling a truck bed or for creating a large pile of chips. Angle the head of the chute up and chips are dispersed evenly over a large area. It can also be rotated side to side. Constructed of heavy gauge steel with a 35-pound flywheel.

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PTO RPM: 540

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always have a supply of good compost to work with.

Shredded bark, left in a pile will eventually break down andbecome great compost. The potting soil that I use is about 80%rotted bark. I make potting soil by purchasing fine textured anddark hardwood bark mulch, and I just put it in a pile and let itrot. The secret is to keep the pile low and flat, so that itdoes not shed the rain water away. You want the mulch to stay aswet as possible, this will cause it to break down fairly quickly.

So I keep a pile of rotted bark mulch near my compost bins.When both bins are completely full, I empty the bin containingthe oldest material by piling it on top of my rotted bark mulch.I make sure the pile of rotted mulch is wide and flat on top sothat when I put the material from the compost bin on top of thepile, the compost material is only 5 to 10 inches thick.

My mulch pile might be 12' wide, but it may only be 24 to 30inches high. Once I have all the compost on top of the pile,then I go around the edge of the pile with a shovel, and takesome of the material from the edges of the pile and toss it upon top of the pile, covering the compost with at least 6" ofrotted bark. This will cause the compost material to decomposethe rest of the way.

Once you get this system started, you never want to use all ofthe material in the pile. Always keep at least 2 to 3 cubicyards on hand so you've got something to mix with your compost.If you use a lot of compost material like I do, then you shouldbuy more material and add to your pile in the late summer orfall, once you are done using it for the season.

Around here many of the supply companies sell a compostmaterial that is already broken down quite well. This is what Ibuy to add to my stockpile. But I try to make sure that I haveat least 3 yards of old material on hand, then I'll add another3 yards of fresh material to that. Then in the spring I'll emptyone of the compost bins and add the compost to the top of thepile.

The pile of usable compost will be layers of material, somemore composted than others. Kind of like a sandwich. So what Ido is chip off a section of the pile from the edge, spread itout on the ground so it's only about 8" deep, then run over itwith my small rototiller. This mixes it together perfectly, andI shovel it onto the potting bench.

Having a pile of rotted compost near your compost bins is greatbecause if you have a lot of leaves or grass clippings, you canthrow some rotted compost in the bin in order to maintain thatlayered effect that is necessary in order for the compostingprocess to work well.

Sure this process is a little work, but it sure is nice to havea place to get rid of organic waste anytime I like. Then downthe road when I have beautiful compost to add to my pottingsoil, I am grateful to have done the right thing earlier, and Iknow that I have wasted nothing.

About the author:Michael J. McGroarty is the author of this article. Visit hismost interesting website, http://www.freeplants.com and sign upfor his excellent gardening newsletter. Article provided by,http://gardening-articles.com

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Greenhouse Gardening
By Matthew Leo, Fri Dec 9th
A Greenhouse can extend your growing season by months and allowyou to sow seeds and harvest crops much earlier than younormally would. With proper planning, some crops can beharvested Read more...



Garden Bridges
By Joe41 Guraro41
garden small postsThere are many reasons for a person to have a big garden and there are many reason for a person to want a big garden. It is all good for all of us to want a big garden, but Read more...


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