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Spring Planting Tips
By Michael J. McGroarty, Fri Dec 9th

You are welcome to use this article on your website or in yournewsletter as long as you reprint it as is, including thecontact information at the end. Website URLs must be activelinks. You are welcome to use this article with an affiliatelink, http://www.freeplants.com/resellers.htm

Spring means that the garden centers are packed with people,and car trunks are packed with plants. Everybody has dirt ontheir knees, dirt under their nails, and is excited aboutgardening. To make certain that this excitement yields positiveresults, let's discuss the basics in this article of springplanting tips.

  Installing new plants and having them grow successfully is notdifficult, nor is it as complicated as some would have youthink. Is it as easy as just digging a hole and setting theplant in? Yes, it certainly can be. I won't get into bedpreparation, as I have covered that in other articles that areavailable at http://www.freeplants.com


Let's start with B&B plants. B&B is short for balled in burlap.Closely examine the ball on the plant that you have purchased.Did the diggers wrap twine around the ball to hold the plantsecure? If they did, you should at least cut the twine and layit in the bottom of the hole, or remove it completely. Pay closeattention around the stem of the plant where it emerges from theroot ball, as diggers often wrap the twine around the stemseveral times as they tie the ball. This is extremely importantbecause if the string is nylon, it will not rot and will girdleand kill the plant two or three years from now.

  When B&B plants are stored in the nursery for extended periodsof time it becomes necessary to re-burlap them if the bottomstarts to rot before the plants are sold. If the plant that youbuy has been re-burlaped it is possible that there could benylon stings between the two layers of burlap, so check the stemcarefully. As long as the nylon string is removed from aroundthe stem of the plant, it is actually harmless around the restof the ball, and you do not have to remove it.

  Is the root ball wrapped in genuine burlap, or imitationburlap made of a non-biodegradable plastic material?

  Genuine burlap will rot quickly underground and does not haveto be disturbed before planting. If you're not sure or suspect apoly type burlap, you don't have to remove it completely, butshould loosen it around the stem of the plant and cut somevertical slices around the circumference of the ball.  

Now here's the critical part. What kind of soil are you plantingin? 

If your soil is heavy clay, I highly suggest that you raise theplanting bed at least 8" with good rich topsoil. If you can't dothat for some reason, install the plant so that at least 2" ormore of the root ball is above the existing grade and mound thesoil over the root ball. Keep in mind that plants installed thisway could dry out over the summer, but planting them flush withthe ground in heavy clay can mean that the roots will be too wetat other times of the year.

  The "experts" suggest that when planting in clay soil you digthe hole wider and deeper than the root ball and fill around andunder the plant with loose organic material. That sounds like areally great idea, doesn't it? Some of these experts alsorecommend that you dig the hole extra deep and put a few inchesof gravel in the bottom for drainage. Where do you suppose theythink this water is going to "drain" to?

  Keep in mind that most B&B plants are grown in well drainedsoil. That means that the soil in the root ball is porous andwater can easily pass through. Now imagine if you will, a rootball about 15" in diameter, setting in a hole 30" in diameter.All around and under that root ball is loose organic matter.Inside of that root ball is porous soil. Now along comes MotherNature with a torrential downpour. There is water everywhere,and it is not going to soak into that hard packed clay soil, soit is just flowing across the top of the ground searching forthe lowest point.

  When it reaches our newly planted tree surrounded by looseorganic matter, it is going to seep in until the planting holeis completely full of water. (Remember my article on getting ridof standing water and the French drain system?) By using thisplanting technique we have actually created a French drainaround our poor little plant that cannot tolerate its rootsbeing without oxygen for long periods of time. Because thebottom of this hole is clay, even though we've added gravel fordrainage, there is nowhere for the water to go, and this plantis going to suffer and likely die.

  If you cannot raise the planting bed with topsoil, and areplanting in clay soil, I recommend that you install the rootball at least 2" above grade and backfill around the ball withthe soil that you removed when you dug the hole. Backfillingwith the clay soil that you removed is actually like building adam to keep excess water from permeating the root ball of yournewly

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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planted tree. The plant is not going to thrive in thispoor soil, but at least it will have a chance to survive.  

Once again, raising the bed with good rich topsoil is the bestthing you can do to keep your plants healthy and happy.

No matter what kind of soil you have, be careful not to installyour plants too deep. They should never be planted any deeperthan they were grown in the nursery. Planting too deep is acommon problem, and thousands of plants are killed each year bygardeners who just don't understand how critical planting depthis.

  Staking newly planted trees is always a good idea. If your newtree constantly rocks back and forth when the wind blows it willhave a very difficult time establishing new roots into theexisting soil. Stabilize the tree with a stake. You can use awooden stake, a fence post, or for small trees I often use 1/2"electro magnetic tubing, (conduit), available at any hardwarestore.

  You can secure the tree to the stake with a single wrap ofduct tape. In about six months or a year the sun will dry theglue on the duct tape and it will fall off. Check the tape tomake sure that it has fallen off. You don't want to girdle thetree with the tape.  

Container grown plants are much easier. Follow the rules fordepth of planting as described earlier. Before gently removingthe plant from the container check the drain holes in the bottomof the container for roots that might be growing out the holes.If so, cut them off so they will not make it difficult to getthe plant out of the container.

  The easiest way to remove the plant from the container is toplace your hand over the top of the container and turn itcompletely upside down and give it a gentle shake. The plantshould slide right into your hand.

  Examine the root mass as you hold it in your hand. Sometimeswhen plants have been growing in a container for a long time theroots start to grow in a circular pattern around the root mass.This is not good, and you should disturb these roots beforeplanting so you can break this circular pattern. You can take aknife and actually make about three vertical slices from the topof the root mass to the bottom. This will stimulate new rootsthat will grow outward into the soil of your garden. Or you canjust take your fingers and loosen the roots that are circlingthe root mass and force them outward before you plant them.

  What about fertilizer, bone meal, peat moss, and all thoseother additives they are going to try and sell you at the gardencenter?

  Raise your planting beds with good rich topsoil and forgetabout the additives. Be very careful with fertilizers, they cando more harm than good. I landscaped my house 14 years ago and Ihaven't got around to fertilizing the plants yet, and have nointention of doing so. They look great.

  As far as bone meal and all those other soil additives areconcerned, don't get too caught up in all that stuff. The onlything that I know for sure is that they will make your walletthinner, but I don't think you'll see a difference in yourplants. Over the years I've landscaped several hundred homeswith fantastic results, and I never added any of these additivesto my planting beds.

Did I mention planting in good rich topsoil?  That's the secret!

Michael J. McGroarty is the author of this article. Visit hismost interesting website, http://www.freeplants.com and sign upfor his excellent gardening newsletter.  Article provided byhttp://gardening-articles.com


About the author:Michael J. McGroarty has more than 30 years experience in thelandscape gardening/nursery industry. He's spent the better partof his life on his hands and knees in the dirt working withplants and his hands-on experience allows Mike to write in amanner than many gardeners find to be helpful and beneficial.

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How To Grow Chocolate Cosmos
By Linda Paquette, Fri Dec 9th
Love Chocolate? Here’s How to Grow Chocolate CosmosChocolate cosmos (Cosmos atrosanguinea) is both nose and eyecandy for your garden. When it’s in full bloom, mature blossomson long, Read more...



Starting A Shade Garden
By Kathy Burns-Millyard, Fri Dec 9th
Starting a Shade Garden The shade garden can be exploding with color and texture. Nomatter how much shade is in your landscape, the right flowers,plants, bushes and bulbs will grow in this Read more...


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